(Johan)Yesterday we were expecting a 3-4 metre swell. Ratman picked me up at 11.50 and we headed for the surf. When we got there we hooked up with Frexi, who was going to have his first surf since december.
(Ratman)When we got there it was onshore, as expected. We figured that the swell was on it's way and after a while of watching and waiting for bigger sets, we decided that we may as well paddle out..The waves got bigger but not as big as we had been led to believe from the weather sights...
It was pretty crappy, onshore and bumpy but there were some 4ft sets every now and then and we had a 5½ hour session. Good fun! (Oh yeah, have you noticed that you can click on the picks and they get bigger!!!)
For the first time we saw other surfers..!!! After about ½ an hour we saw someone in a wetty walking down the rocks..I was surprised having never seen another soul around when we surf!
After the surfer paddled out it turned out to be a girl!! Julia from Alnön..We had a good laugh with her..she was cool..then 3 MORE people turned up!!!
It was about 9 degs in the water and with my 6/5/4 wetty,7mm boots and gloves I was roasting like a stuffed chook on the barbie, so I surfed mostly without the hood but if a set came and you were forced to duckdive more than 2-3 waves then it was a good idea to rip the hood on quickly! 3 younger fellas paddled out without hoods and I think 4/3 or 3/2 wetties on...they paddled out..and one guy said..it's not as cold as I thought it would be..then a set came and 5 minutes later they were gone!!! HAHAHAHA
Even though it wasn't as clean as we have been spoilt with over the last few surfs it was fun and we all surfed until our arms couldn't take any more..(the old spagetti arm syndrome)
Doesn't look like any swell the next few days but Norway's goin' off..maybe a quick trip over there might wet the appetite a little!!
Peace for now.RAT,JOHAN,FREXI and JAY
No comments:
Post a Comment