A taste of what we sometimes do just to get wet...
This surf was solid 5-6ft but the only problem was that it was snowing sideways straight into our eyes and it hurt sooo much! It was like small ice needles hitting you in the eyeballs ALL the time so it made it incredibly hard to see the waves approaching. Once you were up and riding it was totally ok to surf..
Although it looks unbearably cold it actually isn't that bad..you are actually quite warm inside the thermos effect of the neoprene.....it's only bad AFTER you have surfed and you have to take your wetty OFF.....THEN IT'S BAD.....
Because you're already wet, even if you do it in stages and get dressed in stages along the way you still freeze immediately once you have taken whatever part of your wetsuit gear off. eg wetty gloves off.....fingers frozen in 10 secs flat! etc..Even if you put normal gloves on asap it's already too late so by the time you've 'section by section' changed and dressed you're still a total iceblock by the time you get to getting your feet out of your 6/5/4 wetty..it's AGONY..HAHAHAHA but still heaps of fun and a total adventure!! enjoy the pics..R.I.P AI.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
The Midnight runners crew
From left, Woodsy (alias Postman Pat (and his black and white cat), Grant Ratman, Jay Han Solo, Heath Sheath (alias cutts cutter)..Johan (alias kojak, not in pic)..
As of last week the guy on the right Heath Sheath bailed out and headed home to Oz..boohoo..we are now one man down and have to try harder to motivate each other to go surfing in 4 deg water and howling snowstorms..it was fun will it lasted mate.. ;-) peace from the midnight runners!
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
have dreads will travel
our van, note the plastic doll parts) we collected them off the beaches and then tied them onto other surfers cars.. eurotrip 89-91
huge ulu's, that's me paddling in the circle!
one of the first ever simon anderson 'thrusters' bought from the man himself
proudly holding a gun i shaped in newquay england '89, i wrapped it in a blanket and took it to lacanau and glassed it in the first ever surfboard shop there, a small shed. We couldn't communicate at all 'cause he couldn't speak english and we couldn't speak one word of french so we drank wine and had a blast together. the pic of us standing in his shed is further up in the earlier pics.