September 14, 2007
(Jay) After what seemed to be an eternity, we finally got some waves. We had been waiting and anticipating for something, anything to come our way since our last session together (some 5 weeks earlier). In fact, the last time we all paddled out together, it was pretty much just that... paddling. The waves were small and barely ridable. Today, however, changed all that.
Grant sent me a message on Wednesday saying that Friday looked as though there might be some waves so get on standby. We watched in anticipation and decided for sure that we'd commit to a trip over to the coast. My wife was eager to take me so she could visit a childhood friend of hers who lives nearby which was good so I didn't have to wait around for Grant and Johan to get off from work. In the late afternoon we were off.
I arrived at the surf break around 14:00 and right as I did, Grant called (surfer's ESP). I hadn't yet seen the condition but there were definite signs that there was something stirring in the waters nearby. I told him I'd call him back with a report. I got out of the car and made a B-line straight for the break. When I got there, the wind was howling onshore and this is what I saw.
Now, I know it doesn't look like much but for a group of surfers who haven't seen waves in months, this was a welcome invitation. I immediately sent a picture to Grant and described it as mushy but worth the drive. I then ran back to my car and suited up, while Grant sent a picture back of "3 angry guys ..hangin' for a surf and with 1½ hours drive still left to go...hahaha".
Around 14:15 (+1 GMT) I was in the water. Grant and Johan picked up Andrew (another SoCal surfer) and Jonas (a friend of Johan's) and they were off. 2 hours before the crew showed up, I had the waves to myself. Although it was lonely, I didn't mind the solitude since I haven't had many sessions where I've surfed alone in my life. The waves were actually quite good and I was suprised from what I briefly witnessed before I suited up. The average wave rolling in was about chest to shoulder high. The biggest sets brought in head high to slightly overhead rollers. The wind made the water's surface pretty bumpy and the fact that I'm riding a SoCal shortboard, in a 5 mm wetsuit, 6mm gloves and 6mm booties and a dang hood, I got pretty worn out by the time I finally made it out into the line up. The waves were a lot of fun and each one I rode, I constantly had the thought that I had to paddle my sluggish ass back out. Surfing shouldn't feel this way so I either need a thicker board or I need to start training more.
Around 16:00 the guys showed up and they were greeted by Frexi and Dan (who are our local bros). I paddled in to give them the low down as well as meet Jonas. When they all got suited up we were back out. By this time however, my super human strength and awesome abilities became weakend by my previous workout so I caught a few more waves (with the ever present thought of the paddle), came in and got changed to take pics.
I have to appologize to the guys ahead of time that these pics do not give them any credit at all to their abilities. I took these pictures with my phone camera and with delays in the camera's mechanics, I missed all the choice shots and got the crap.. So sorry dudes...
I'm not sure, but I think this is Jonas and Grant.
This is Jonas~>
(This session was his 2nd surf session in Sweden and his first in Norrland)
<~Here's Johan after a nice right.
Here's Andrew on the rainbow longboard.~>
<~Just one of the set waves that rolled in.
The guys got worn out pretty quickly too as I did and were out after being in a few hours. The waves had died down about an hour and a ½ after they got in so they got a good taste of the swell. We hung out a bit and my wife called saying she got me some grub from Max's and was on her way. When she arrived, the guys were all changed and boards mounted up for the LONG trip home.
All in all, this was one of the good days although not many rides will be remembered. I think the only one who had a great ride was Grant who came back to the car hooting and describing his floater on the inside section. Thanks for the head's up Grant and thank you guys for the company on the surf sesh. Keep praying for surf.
